Things to do in Mostar

Mostar sits roughly 130 km southwest of Sarajevo, a drive of 2 h 15 to 2 h 30, or 2 h 40 by train on one of two daily departures for around 12 KM. The city split administratively after the 1990s war and still runs as two municipal halves either side of the Neretva.

Kujundziluk, the old copper-market lane running down to the river, is where hammered pots, pens and shell casings turned into souvenirs are sold, with prices that rise the closer you get to the bridge.

In July and August the old town fills with day-trip coach groups by mid-morning and stays packed until early evening, and cafe and stall prices climb accordingly, well above what the same coffee costs in Sarajevo. m. or staying one night changes the visit; Mostar after the coaches leave is a different, quieter town.